Things to Do in North Berwick: Edinburgh’s Perfect Day Trip

North Berwick had been haunting my trip to Edinburgh ever since I spied Bass Rock protruding from the distant coastline on my ascent of Arthur’s Seat. Gleaming silvery-grey in the sunlight, it enticed me like a beacon, so I was off on a day trip from Edinburgh the very next morning. 

This little town has since become one of my favourite seaside getaways. Located on the Firth of Forth in East Lothian, it has a history of welcoming city day trippers, and it grew in popularity as a resort town in the 19th century. 

Within 40 minutes of the city by train, you’ve swapped the busy streets of Scotland’s capital for the refreshing sea air and laid-back atmosphere of the coast. Here, strolling sandy beaches, gorging on fish and chips and fixing your eyes on the open horizon are all the order of the day. 

But that’s not all. An old chapel carries a turbulent history of witchcraft, a crumbling castle clings to the clifftops and across the water, Bass Rock is home to a raucous colony of Northern gannets. If you’re thinking of doing a day trip or lingering longer, here are the very best things to do in North Berwick. 

See the Northern gannets of Bass Rock 

Bass Rock stands just off the coast of North Berwick like an ever-present sentinel. The volcanic plug had once been a home for lighthouse keepers and hermits, but now belongs to one of the world’s largest Northern gannet colonies that nest there from January to October.  

The Scottish Seabird Centre offers catamaran cruises and RIB boat trips to Bass Rock and, in my opinion, it’s one of the best things to do in North Berwick. Whichever one you pick, the tour includes a guide who shares fascinating stories and facts while you cut through the waves with seabirds wheeling overhead. Boat tours also include a sail by Tantallon Castle and Lamb Island. During a trip in May, I was lucky enough to see seals and puffins!

I’ve done both options. The cruise is perfect for families with young children or those seeking a more laid-back wildlife-watching experience, while the exhilarating RIB speeds over the water, dousing you with the occasional splash of sea spray. 

In peak season from March to September, almost every surface of the rock is covered in around 150,000 Northern gannets. The boat gets quite close, and you can see them resting, squabbling over territory or raising chicks depending on the time of year. I saw a few gangly-looking gugas (older chicks) beginning to find their wings during my September visit. 

As the boat sails around the rock, you’ll see the remains of an old chapel and a fortress which held prisoners in the 17th century. The lighthouse is still intact and has been automated since the 1980s. 

Visit the Scottish Seabird Centre

Set in front of the harbour, the Scottish Seabird Centre has an award-winning visitor centre where you can pop in and learn about the local wildlife. At the family-friendly Discovery Experience, browse interactive exhibits and VR programmes that teach you about Scotland’s marine habitats and the creatures that live in them. 

Summer is the best time to visit as there’s a viewing deck and live camera feed of the Northern gannets of Bass Rock – perfect if you don’t fancy sailing over to see them. The visitor centre also has a cafe and a gift shop. I spent a good few minutes browsing the scented candles, fridge magnets and seedballs. 

Boat trips to Bass Rock and even the Isle of May can also be booked at the kiosk down by the harbour from April to September. While it’s best to get tickets in advance to avoid disappointment, I was able to book my boat trip to Bass Rock on the day during a Monday morning in May. 

Explore the harbour 

North Berwick Harbour is hidden behind the Scottish Seabird Centre. For such a small harbour, you can easily spend a few hours here watching the colourful boats bobbing on the water at high tide or grabbing a casual bite to eat at The Lobster Shack. The North Berwick Kayak Club and Sea Beyond Paddlesports are also located here. 

A flight of steps leads up to the harbour wall with a cluster of benches giving you ample sea views and people-watching opportunities. It narrows into a walkway cut into the natural rock, and you can follow it to the end for a dazzling 360-degree coastal panorama. Although well-maintained, the walkway is uneven in places, with steps and natural rock, so take care when navigating it. 

As you pass lichen-covered rock and sheltered rock pools, keep an eye out for wildlife. I spotted an opportunistic pigeon with a chick nesting in a crevice and a huddle of seabirds snoozing in the afternoon sun (I think they were ruddy turnstones judging by their orange legs and speckled plumage!). 

Wander along the beaches 

North Berwick is fringed by sandy beaches. The largest is Milsey Bay, which sweeps around the coastline from the harbour and offers sublime views of Bass Rock across the water. On a warm day, you can brave the sea’s cool temperatures with a dip in the tidal pool, a walled shallow swimming area that fills at high tide. 

My favourite beach is West Bay on the other side of the harbour, overlooked by a golf course and the conical North Berwick Law. You’ll need to pick your way through the seaweed and other debris, but right on the far side, rocks form a series of sheltered sandy coves that feel utterly secluded and away from the town. Paddle in the water, investigate rock pools or simply soak up the scenery with a picnic. 

Venture to Tantallon Castle 

The crumbling ruin of Tantallon Castle sits on a clifftop promontory, 3 miles from North Berwick. Once an impenetrable fortress built in the mid 1300s by William Douglas, it has a thick red sandstone curtain wall surrounded by steep sea cliffs. 

It was besieged three times throughout its 300 years, finally falling under cannon fire during an attack by Oliver Cromwell in 1651. It still took him 12 days and several thousand soldiers to defeat the 91 men defending it. 

Now managed by Historic Scotland, you can wander around the ruins and imagine what it must have been like in its heyday. Much of the formidable wall still stands. To get here from North Berwick, it’s a 10-minute drive or 20 minutes via the hourly number 120 bus. 

You can also walk it by following part of the John Muir Way along the clifftops for about 2 hours. On the way, stop at Drift for tea and cake with sublime sea views. This little excursion is one of my favourite things to do near North Berwick. 

Contemplate North Berwick’s infamous witch trials 

The year was 1589. King James VI travelled to Norway, where his new bride, Anne of Denmark, had been forced to shelter after violent storms had prevented her from crossing the North Sea. Furious, he began to suspect that the cause of the storms was unnatural, and he blamed witchcraft. 

A servant girl from Tranent near North Berwick was tortured into falsely confessing that on All Hallow’s Eve, she and a coven of 200 witches had danced with the devil in Anchor Green to summon a storm to take the king’s life. It led to the biggest and most brutal witch trial in Scottish history. Between 70 and 200 innocent people were killed by torture or execution. Sadly, the exact number is unknown. 

You can see where the accused had allegedly danced at the ruins of St Andrew’s Old Kirk just outside the Scottish Seabird Centre. The little chapel had been restored in 2005, but excavation of the foundations has revealed a much older site of worship dating back to 1177. Set by the old harbour, it was thought to have been used by sailors to pray for safe passage on the North Sea. 

Climb the North Berwick Law 

The North Berwick Law is a single volcanic hill that rises sharply from low-lying farmlands surrounding the town. Remains of both an Iron Age fort and lookouts from the Napoleonic Wars and World War II have been found at the top, owing to its high vantage point and steep incline. 

One of the best free things to do in North Berwick is to climb to the summit for panoramic views of the East Lothian coastline framed by a replica of a whale’s jawbone. A real jawbone had been there since 1709 until it was removed due to concerns over safety in 2005. 

The path up to the Law’s summit is well signed from the town and the car park at the foot of the hill. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the top, and it’s important to stick to the trail as the hill has suffered from erosion. 

Have coffee at Steampunk Coffee Roasters

Time for coffee? Go bean-to-cup at Steampunk. The specialty coffee roaster offers a selection of freshly roasted single-origin coffees to buy or sample alongside a pastry at the bar. 

Starting from humble beginnings, roasting coffee in their garage and selling it in a campervan at events, Steampunk now occupies a large warehouse with a small coffee bar that’s open from 9-5 daily. 

After a busy morning on the water with the Scottish Seabird Centre, I drifted in for a caffeinated pick-me-up. I was greeted by a tantalising aroma and the loud hum of the roasting machine. The bar had a small selection of coffees, hot chocolate and tea alongside a platter of baked goods. I settled for an iced latte, which I enjoyed sitting outside in the sunshine. 

Browse the independent gift shops 

If you’re in the mood for souvenir shopping or a poke about in a boutique, North Berwick’s high street will keep you busy with its choice of independent shops for every kind of mood and interest. 

A few shops in North Berwick to look out for include: 

• Rock & Bird – root around for art supplies
• Paper Flower – look for unique jewellery and cards
• Bonzo Art Studio and Shop – pick up local artworks 
• Time & Tide – browse custom furniture and home accessories
• NORDEN – look for Nordic-inspired gifts 
• Meg Maitland – pick up a new outfit 

Eat and drink around town 

Alongside good shopping, North Berwick has some excellent places to eat and drink, as I soon discovered when the heavens opened, and I ran for cover to the nearest pub. If you’d like to be a little more strategic, some great restaurants, cafes, bakeries, bars and pubs include: 

Bostock Bakery – go in the morning for the best selection of baked goods. The stock was somewhat depleted when I went in during the afternoon, but I managed to get a delicious triple chocolate cookie, which I ate on West Bay Beach. 

The Rocketeer Restaurant – ravenous after my boat trip to Bass Rock, I devoured my lunch of fishcakes and chips here. Its wall of windows offers fantastic views of the North Berwick Tidal Pool. 

Tea at Tiffanys – On my first visit, I had lunch at Tea at Tiffanys. This friendly tearoom serves tea, cake, sandwiches, soups and toasties. The scones with cream and jam are fabulous.  

The Herringbone – before my train back to Edinburgh, I dropped into The Herringbone for a cocktail. It serves food too, but I just had a Ben Lomond gin as I was worried about missing the train. 

Relax in the Lodge Grounds 

The Lodge Grounds is a public park with manicured gardens blooming with flowers, a children’s playground, an aviary and a large grass lawn shaded by trees. 

Often overlooked in a corner of the park lies a second ruined church. Built in the mid 1600s to replace the chapel outside the Scottish Seabird Centre, it was abandoned in 1883 when the town’s congregation outgrew it. It’s now roofless, but you can still explore the well-maintained churchyard. 

The park is worth a wander on a sunny day. At the gated entrance from the town centre, you’ll pass a grand whitewashed building in a courtyard that dates to around the 17th century or even earlier. It has now been divided into flats, but you can still admire it from the outside. 

North Berwick travel tips

Plan your day trip to North Berwick with these quick tips and recommendations below: 

Best time to visit North Berwick 

There isn’t a wrong time to visit, but if you’d like to make the most of all there is to do in North Berwick, I recommend April to September. 

Boat tours to Bass Rock with the Scottish Seabird Centre are available, and the weather is mild, making the outdoor activities much more enjoyable. It’s always worth bringing waterproofs and warm layers, as it tends to get windy on the sea cliffs and out on the water. 

How to get to North Berwick from Edinburgh 

North Berwick is quick and easy to get to from Edinburgh by train, making it one of my favourite car-free day trips. 

Trains to North Berwick run hourly. Jump on at Edinburgh Waverley Station and ride for just under 40 minutes to the end of the line. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk to the town centre. Just follow the signs. 

On the return journey back to Edinburgh, there’s only one platform at the tiny town station, so there’s no danger of getting on the wrong train!

Tickets cost £8.90 for an adult return, and you can get them at the ticket machines at Edinburgh Waverley. If you’re in a group of 3-5, you can get a third off your tickets with GroupSave, but you’ll need to go to the ticket office to buy it. 

Final thoughts on things to do in North Berwick 

With so much to do and straightforward public transport links, North Berwick is a brilliant day trip from Edinburgh. Ever since I spied the ghostly shape of Bass Rock looming out of the water, I’ve been drawn to this resort town. It has everything you’d want from a seaside getaway. 

In less than 40 minutes by train, you’re by the sea, browsing the independent shops, tucking into cake, strolling along the beach and investigating rock pools. Throw in an impressive ruined fortress and an exhilarating boat trip around Bass Rock, and you have a day out that’s brimming with adventure. 

Looking for more days out by public transport? Be sure to check out my guide to the best day trips from Edinburgh without a car here.