Ultimate 7-Day Scotland West Coast Itinerary Without a Car
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The West Coast is my favourite part of Scotland. I’m constantly drawn to its dramatic scenery, characterised by long sea lochs, wild glens, ancient volcanic peaks and ruined castles.
I’ve put together a 7-day Scotland West Coast itinerary that will take you to some of the most beautiful places the region has to offer. Unlike other guides, the car is optional.
There’s something for everyone, whether you’re a nature lover wanting to see wildlife and the outdoors, a foodie interested in seafood and whisky or a history buff seeking ruined fortresses.
This route is entirely done by public transport. Far from limiting, you ride the most scenic railway in Scotland and explore the Isle of Skye, all without a car. You can modify it if you prefer a road trip.
As a non-driver, I’ve done this exact route myself with the same public transport links and timings, so this itinerary is tried and tested. Here’s how to see Scotland’s classic West Coast without driving.
Scotland West Coast itinerary overview & route map
This itinerary is perfect if you want a West Coast route that combines scenic railways, ferries and island hopping without needing a car. Here’s a quick overview:
- Day 1: Glasgow to Fort William via the West Highland Line
- Days 2 and 3: Isle of Skye (Portree base and full-day tour for non-drivers)
- Day 4: Return to Fort William via Glenfinnan
- Day 5: Fort William to Oban by train and bus
- Day 6: Staffa, Fingal’s Cave and the Treshnish Isles (from Oban)
- Day 7: Oban to Glasgow via the West Highland Line
Getting around the west coast of Scotland
It’s a common misconception that you need a car to do a Scotland west coast road trip. While it’s easier, it’s not a necessity. I do it all the time on my travel itineraries!
You just have to do some extra planning to get the public transport and tours to line up, but it’s doable even on the Isle of Skye.
Buses and ferries can be infrequent in places, so having your timings sorted in advance helps. I recommend using Traveline Scotland as it’s the most accurate journey planner.
When using public transport in Scotland, you need to book coaches, ferries and trains in advance. For regional buses, you can just pay when you board.
If you plan to drive, this itinerary still applies. You’ll just go by road instead of taking the train or bus. Check out Discovercars.com to compare car hires.
Every stop in this itinerary includes simple instructions for the exact trains, buses or ferries I used, so you know the route genuinely works without a car.
💡 If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all the planning, I recommend using Byway Travel. They create bespoke, self-guided itineraries, and I used them for my first West Coast trip.
They sort all the tickets and hotels for you so you can simply turn up. Plus, you have 24/7 support on WhatsApp. If you’re new to travelling in Scotland by public transport, Byway is the easiest way to explore without a guided tour.
💡Quick disclaimer: all public transport timings are correct at the time of writing, but please do check Traveline Scotland, Scottish Citylink and ScotRail for the most up-to-date schedules.
Your perfect 7-day West Coast of Scotland itinerary
Day 1: Glasgow to Fort William
Welcome to day one of your West Coast Scotland itinerary! Today, you’re heading to Fort William. It’s the largest town in the West Highlands, with plenty of restaurants, places to stay and easy public transport links.
To get there, it’s a direct train from Glasgow to Fort William, taking 3 hours and 47 minutes.
You won’t be bored, though! Your journey follows the West Highland Line, one of the most scenic railways in Scotland. I’ve taken this route several times now, and the views never get old.
🏠 Suggested place to stay: The Garrison Hotel for modern and stylish rooms, suites and serviced apartments in the heart of Fort William.
West Highland Line
If you take the 8:22 am direct train service, you’ll get to Fort William for around 12:12 pm in time for lunch and an afternoon activity.
I always book my train ticket online in advance with ScotRail, as the West Highland Line gets busy. Make sure you reserve your seat at the time of booking, as passengers often have to stand.
Aim for a window seat on the right-hand side, as you’ll have a view of Loch Lomond and the Arrochar Alps. After you reach Crianlarich, the foothills give way to wide open moorland.
The train crosses Rannoch Moor before pulling into Corrour, the UK’s highest and most remote mainline train station.
As you veer to the west, you arrive in Fort William. Just before it gets to the station, you might see the UK’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, to your left. It was hidden in the clouds the first time I did this Scotland West Coast itinerary.
Lunch in Fort William
If you took my suggested train, you’ll be in Fort William at midday. Before you sit down to lunch, drop your bags off at your hotel. Check-in is usually at 3 pm, but I’ve always found they’re happy to take my bags if I arrive earlier, and it saves me lugging them around.
You have a choice of where to eat in Fort William, so what do you fancy? The Wildcat has an excellent vegan menu with a huge tea selection. I also love the wood-fired pizza made with organic ingredients at the Black Isle Bar.
After lunch, you can either explore the Caledonian Canal or ride the Nevis Gondola into the mountains.
Loch Linnhe & Neptune’s Staircase
Fort William sits at the top of Loch Linnhe, a sea loch stretching 31 miles down Scotland’s west coast. At the head of the loch is the Caledonian Canal, which connects it to Loch Ness.
The canal’s Loch Linnhe mouth has a flight of eight locks called Neptune’s Staircase. It’s free to visit and makes for an easy stop to fit into the afternoon.
To get there, ride the number 47 bus for 30 minutes to Banavie train station. You could take the train, but it’s infrequent, while the bus is hourly.
Neptune’s Staircase is just a few minutes away from the station. After you’ve seen it, you could do a longer loop and follow the canal down to Loch Linnhe in Corpach.
It opens out onto a beach with a rusted fishing boat that looks surprisingly scenic. It takes about an hour to do the loop, or you could get the bus back to Fort William from Corpach.
Nevis Range Mountain Gondola
If you’re looking for panoramic mountaintop views without the effort of climbing, ride the Nevis Range Mountain Gondola up Aonach Mòr Mountain (Scotland’s eighth-tallest mountain).
Weather permitting, it’s open year-round. Take the number 41 bus for 26 minutes to the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre, where you’ll buy your ticket. It’s £28.95 for an adult day pass.
There are some walks to spectacular panoramic viewpoints across the Great Glen and Ben Nevis. The two main ones are Sgurr Finnisg-aig and Meall Beag, and they can be completed in an hour or less. It’s the perfect taste of the Scottish Highlands on your itinerary.
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Day 2: Fort William to the Isle of Skye
On day two, leave Fort William and head to the Isle of Skye, one of the most magical places to visit on Scotland’s west coast.
The quickest and easiest way to get there is via the Scottish Citylink 915 coach from Fort William bus station to Uig. You’ll want to get off at Portree, the largest and most well-connected village on the island, for tours and buses.
There’s a coach at 10 am, and the journey takes 3 hours. Book your ticket online a few weeks in advance to guarantee your spot. There are charging points and a toilet on board!
Once again, you’re treated to spectacular scenery. The road turns west at Invergarry to follow the A87, AKA the ‘Road to the Isles.’
You’ll pass the entire length of Loch Cluanie, framed by mountains on your left. As the road winds through Glen Shiel, the mountain scenery gets even more dramatic.
Look right to see the Five Sisters of Kintail, a group of peaks that rise steeply above the road ahead of Loch Duich. As you travel along the loch, you’ll see Eilean Donan Castle on your left.
Unfortunately, the coach doesn’t stop, and it’s tricky to coordinate getting off here, as coaches are too infrequent.
For the final leg of the journey, the coach crosses the Skye Bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh, then winds up along Skye’s coast to Portree.
🏠 Suggested place to stay (2 nights): Viewfield House is a stunning country manor just outside Portree (in summer), Cullin Hills Hotel (in winter) is another stylish pick or The Portree Hotel for an affordable option.
Explore Portree
If you took the 10 am coach, you’ll be in Portree at around 1 pm. It’s the perfect time to drop bags off at your hotel, grab some lunch and explore the village. It’s very walkable, so you don’t lose time navigating buses.
Portree is known for its harbourfront lined with colourful houses. The best view of it is from Bosville Terrace, which is around the corner from Cafe Arriba, an excellent lunch stop.
Down on the harbour, you’ll find wildlife boat tours and above it is The Lump, an unflattering name for a panoramic viewpoint across Loch Portree. But I’d save your energy to spend the rest of the afternoon at the Old Man of Storr.
Hike the Old Man of Storr
The Storr is a hill on the Trotternish Ridge, and one of the most famous landmarks on Skye. It’s famous for its 200-foot stone pinnacle, which stands upright as if it were placed there by giants.
The best views are from the hiking trail that leads up to it from the car park. To get to it, ride the 57C bus for 20 minutes to the car park. Unlike driving, you don’t have to worry about fighting over a parking space or paying fees. Plus, there are free toilets!
It takes about 45 minutes to an hour and 15 minutes to walk up to the Storr, depending on the weather and fitness. The trail is a medium difficulty level as it’s steep and uneven in places. Wear sturdy footwear, as it can get muddy.
Editor’s tip: If the bus timetable doesn’t quite line up with your schedule, you could take a taxi to the car park and a bus back or vice versa.
Day 3: Explore Skye
Today is all about Skye. I won’t lie, the easiest way to get around Skye is to drive. There are buses, but they’re infrequent, and you can’t stop as much as you would be able to if you drove.
But you don’t have to be the one driving (and navigating those nerve-wracking single-track roads!). That’s why I recommend doing a small group (or private) day tour from Portree with Tour Skye.
It’s the only realistic way to see multiple sights on Skye in one day without driving. You’ll be able to:
- See the magical Fairy Pools
- Sample a wee dram at Talisker, Skye’s oldest distillery
- Hike to Neist Point, the most dramatic westerly point of Skye
- OR explore Dunvegan Castle & Gardens and see the famous Fairy Flag
- See the Quiraing, an ancient landslide on the Trotternish Peninsula
- Look at Mealt Falls and Kilt Rock with rock columns that look like the pleats of a kilt!
- Spot fossilised dinosaur footprints on the beach at Staffin
- Admire the view of the Old Man of Storr one more time
If you don’t do a tour, you could take a bus to Fairy Glen, the Quiraing, Dunvegan Castle or Talisker Distillery instead. Choose one stop, so you’re not worrying about timetables.
Editor’s tip: If you prefer to drive this part, read my full 2-day Skye itinerary with route direction, top places to see and a map.
Day 4: Skye to Fort William via Glenfinnan
It’s time to leave Skye and return to Fort William, but you’re not going back the way you came. You’ll catch the 52 bus to Armadale and take the ferry across to Mallaig to do the most scenic part of the West Highland Line.
The bus takes about an hour and 15 minutes from Portree to Armadale. Annoyingly, the bus and ferry don’t line up, so you have a few hours to wait. I spent some time at Armadale Castle and had a late breakfast at The Shed, a small cafe at the port.
Book your ferry from Armadale to Mallaig with Caledonian MacBrayne online in advance. The ferry crossing takes about 45 minutes, and it’s worth keeping your eyes on the water. I spotted a dolphin following behind us for some of the way!
Editor’s tip: If you have a few hours in Mallaig, drop your bags off at Mallaig Luggage Storage, then walk up to Morar Cross. It’s short and steep, but the views across Loch Morar make it worth it!
Mallaig to Fort William
From Mallaig, you have three ways to reach Fort William. You can either take the bus (least scenic) or the train. ScotRail runs direct services from Mallaig to Fort William, but you can also take the famous Jacobite steam train between April and late October.
Both trains follow the same route, but the Jacobite is a novelty tourist attraction by West Coast Railways, while ScotRail is a fraction of the price. I was desperately excited to ride the Jacobite, so I chose this option to get to Fort William during my trip.
It doesn’t do single tickets, so even if you ride the train one way, you can only buy a return journey to Fort William. Tickets sell out months in advance, but it was still worth it to ride the Hogwarts Express. My inner child was very happy!
The Jacobite train departs at 2:10 pm, the number 500 bus leaves at 3:48 pm, while the ScotRail train leaves at 4:05 pm, but gets into Fort William at the same time as the bus.
Taking about an hour and 20-40 minutes, it’s a spectacular journey. You’ll pass Loch Morar on the left and the Silver Sands of Morar to the right.
Turning inland at Arisaig, you’ll skim Loch Eilt with the island where Dumbledore was buried in Harry Potter, then come to the head of Loch Shiel in Glenfinnan.
Look out to your right to see the train cross Glenfinnan Viaduct and the Glenfinnan Monument, which commemorates the Highlanders who died during the Jacobite Rebellion.
Editor’s tip: It’s worth exploring Glenfinnan, as you only catch a glimpse from the train. The Jacobite doesn’t stop here, but if you’ve taken the ScotRail train, you can get off. Make sure you catch the 7:04 pm train as it’s the last one of the day!
🏠 Suggested place to stay: Again, in Fort William, I recommend The Garrison Hotel or Muthu Fort William Hotel is another top pick.
Day 5: Fort William to Oban
It wouldn’t be a Scotland West Coast itinerary without visiting Oban, the gateway to the Inner Hebrides and the best Scottish seafood destination!
To get there, West Coast Motors 918 is a direct coach from Fort William, taking an hour and 30 minutes. As you pass Appin, look out for Castle Stalker offshore.
In Oban, you have two options. You can either wander around town, or you can take Scotland’s smallest ferry to the Isle of Kerrera.
If you choose the island, you’ll still have time to see the town in this itinerary. But first, drop your bags off at your hotel before working out what you’d like to do in Oban.
🏠 Suggested place to stay (2 nights): Lagganbeg Guest House is a cosy bed and breakfast, and the service was above and beyond when I stayed here. Columba Hotel is a top pick in the town centre.
Isle of Kerrera
The Isle of Kerrera is the closest inhabited island to Oban. It’s often overlooked, but you’re missing out on one of the most dramatic castle ruins on the West Coast.
Kerrera is tiny, and you can walk around it in about 4-5 hours. On the southern tip of the island is the ruin of Gylen Castle, perched on the rocks above the sea. It’s free to visit and go inside.
To get there, walk to the tiny ferry port in Gallanach, about 45 minutes down the road from the centre of Oban. That’s the only drawback for non-drivers.
You’ll then wait for the foot ferry to the island. It can only take a maximum of 12 passengers at a time, and no visitor cars are allowed.
There aren’t any set ferry times either. It crosses roughly every 30 minutes as long as there are passengers, up to about 5 pm, and you need to book your ticket online with Caledonian MacBrayne.
From there, follow the road around the headland, and you’ll notice whimsical signs promoting the Tea Garden (open from April to September). It’s the only place with a public toilet on the island, and it serves delicious sandwiches and cakes.
Gylen Castle is another 30 minutes past the Tea Garden. I recommend following the route by Walkhighlands for the best step-by-step directions.
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Day 6: Staffa, Fingal’s Cave & the Treshnish Isles
One of the best things to do on the west coast of Scotland is a boat tour of the Inner Hebrides, and that’s what I suggest for day 6, weather depending.
My absolute favourite is the Staffa and Treshnish Isles Wildlife Tour. I’ve done it with Staffa Tours in September and again with Turus Mara in June, and I recommend both.
The only difference is that Staffa Tours will pick you up from Oban, while you have to take a ferry to Mull for Turus Mara.
- Turus Mara prices start from £90
- Staffa Tours prices start from £107
Visit Staffa & the Treshnish Isles
From Oban, you’ll sail to the Treshnish Isles. Depending on the time of year and tour, you’ll stop at Lunga, which is home to a puffin colony from April to August.
During puffin season, you’ll be able to make landfall and being surrounded by these comical little birds was the highlight of my trip!
The tour includes a visit to Staffa, an island with a geological wonder known as Fingal’s Cave. This sea cave, shaped by basalt columns, has inspired composers and poets for centuries, including the composer Felix Mendelssohn.
The boat takes you up to the mouth of the cave, but you’ll also be able to walk inside it yourself when you have a chance to explore Staffa. Be careful, as the rocks are uneven.
Each tour is accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. They were brilliant at pointing out wildlife I would’ve missed. On both trips, I saw seals basking on the rocks, and dolphins swam up to the boat.
The absolute highlight of my first trip in September was seeing a feeding minke whale, and on my second trip, it was all about the puffins!
Editor’s tip: If you’re a history lover, Staffa Tours also runs a popular three-island boat tour to Mull, Iona and Staffa. This is a fantastic way to see Iona Abbey, which is known as the ‘Cradle of Celtic Christianity.’
Day 7: Glasgow via the West Highland Line
Today, you’re making the journey back to Glasgow to end your trip. It’s a scenic train journey back down the West Highland Line, so you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the views.
Once again, it’s a good idea to book your ticket in advance and reserve your seat, as it’s a busy line. There isn’t a ticket machine at this station, so go to the counter to get it printed.
The train you catch depends on how much time you’ll want to spend in Oban or Glasgow. I’ve suggested a few things to do in each to help you decide.
Explore Oban
If you haven’t already, now is the time to explore Oban before you return home. Wander along the promenade to St. Columba’s Cathedral and Dunollie Castle. The ruined castle and gardens are open from March to October.
Don’t miss McCaig’s Tower at the top of Battery Hill. The monument sits like a crown above Oban, and it’s free to visit. The hill is steep to get to it but the panoramic views from the top make it worth it. I could see all the way to Duart Castle on the Isle of Mull!
If you have time, Oban Fish & Chips is award-winning, and Oban Seafood Hut serves the freshest seafood. I still think about my crab sandwich. Take a look inside Oban Distillery and stop for a drink at The Oban Inn, which was established in 1790.
Train to Glasgow
The train journey from Oban to Glasgow is about 3 hours, with beautiful views of Ben Cruachan, ‘the Hollow Mountain’, to your left and Loch Awe on your right as the train heads inland to Tyndum.
From Crianlarich, it’s the same scenic views as on your outbound journey to Fort William, and you’ll be able to have one last look at Loch Lomond before following the River Clyde into Glasgow.
Wander around Glasgow
This is optional, depending on how much time you have left in the day and what you plan to do next. If you’re staying the night in Glasgow, check into your hotel, then explore:
- Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum
- Glasgow Cathedral
- Botanic Gardens
- The Necropolis
- The West End neighbourhood
- Glasgow Mural Trail
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Skip the overwhelm. I’ll create a personalised itinerary that’s realistic, practical and tailored to you, so you can spend less time planning and more time getting excited for your trip!
How to plan your itinerary for Scotland’s West Coast
How long should I spend on the West Coast?
You can fit this trip into 7 days, assuming you arrive in Glasgow the day before and leave the day after the itinerary finishes.
If you have up to 10 days, one of the best places to visit on the West Coast for non-drivers is the Isle of Mull. It’s just a short ferry to Craignure from Oban, and you can take a bus to Tobermory, the island’s largest village.
When is the best time to visit?
The best time to visit the west coast of Scotland is April, May and September.
The West Coast is popular, and from June to August, the Isle of Skye is crowded. I would avoid visiting during the summer if you want a quieter trip.
The shoulder seasons are ideal as they’re quieter, but the weather is mild. They also have more reliable CalMac and Citylink schedules compared to winter, when weather cancellations are more common.
Winter isn’t an ideal time to travel the West Coast, as you have less daylight, reduced public transport and many attractions are closed for the season.
Are there tours of the West Coast of Scotland?
If you want the most bespoke itinerary that matches your interests, Byway Travel is the best option. I loved being able to relax with all the accommodation and routes booked for me.
You can see parts of the West Coast on one-day or multi-day guided tours. I recommend basing yourself in either Glasgow or Inverness to do them. The best ones are:
– From Glasgow: Oban, Glencoe, Highland Lochs & Castles Tour
– From Inverness: Torridon, Applecross, & Eilean Donan Castle
– From Inverness: Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle Tour
Top tip: If you don’t know, midges are little biting gnats. They typically hang out in wet or boggy areas on the West Coast, and they’re out in force from July to August. They’re not dangerous, but they’re annoying, and their bites itch. Bring midge repellent with you.
final thoughts
As you can see from this Scotland west coast itinerary, there is no shortage of incredible places to visit. Many of them are still accessible to non-drivers, so you can do this road trip with or without your car.
This route is the perfect way to spend a week in Scotland, but if you have more time, you could take the ferry to the Isle of Mull from Oban and spend a few days exploring the pretty harbour town of Tobermory.
If you’re travelling to Scotland soon, you’re in for a treat. It’s a beautiful country, and the West Coast in particular never ceases to take my breath away every time I visit.
Looking for an itinerary that combines the best of the West Coast with the Scottish Highlands? Check out my 10-day route by train.
Looking for more Scotland travel tips? Check out these posts
- Complete Scotland Packing List: What To Wear For Every Season
- 14 Best Things to Do Near Aviemore, Scotland
- Caledonian Sleeper Seat Review: What Is It Really Like?
- The BEST Train from London to Edinburgh (Review)
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